John Ray's foray into runway for Dunhill Fall 2015 is certainly my favorite collection coming out of London Fashion Week. The still relatively new creative director of the legendary brand is focused on the man wearing the clothes, the wit that is intrinsic to British menswear, and the legacy of who Alfred Dunhill was and what he represented. For fall, John focused in on the artistically driven Soho in London during the '50s and '60s. He's loosened things up more than a bit from what we've come to know from Dunhill, and let's be clear, that is absolutely a good thing. In doing so he's given the Dunhill customer the freedom to be creative in how he wears the brand. As Ray noted in a short film for Dunhill -- "The man gives life to the clothes, its not the other way around."
From beginning to end Ray's strength in point of view for Fall is believable and wearable, right down to the sumptuous silk pajamas paired with long mink coats. The outerwear is stellar, particularly the herringbone toggle overcoat, and the preppy overtones are layered in with just enough effect. The collection in its entirety is as commercial as Dunhill should be, but is also now as inspirational as you have always hoped it would be. Never fear Dunhill devotee's, the impeccable suiting that you crave in the office is still there and better than ever.
This collection not only makes you want to wear the Dunhill brand, but to be British.
[Photos via Style]